Piggies, Sformato, and Sauces galore @ Maialino...

Yesh, I haz returned. From...a...hiatus..ish. Just hadn't been feeling up for publishing much but I do have stuff about Roberta's in Bushwick, Kerrytown Farmer's Market in Ann Arbor, and...I forget what else but nonetheless that will all follow this MASSIVE EPIC RETURN post :)

So me, Karen, Shanaz, Megan, and Frances went to Maialino at 2 Lexington (b/w 22nd and 21st st by the Rose Bar), another Danny Meyer venture that opened last wk. I think I'm still full from last night...no I'm...sure that's the case, but that suckling pig was a BEAST and for the first time I said "Nein! no more!...I can't finish" while hanging my head down in flabbergasted defeat. Anyhoodle, let's get to it:

We spent a bit of time going over the menu (the five of us are...greedy-foodie-PowerEaters...I like to think :D) so we tried to maximize dishes and took quite some time to decide--so the waitress brought us Guanciale Rolls on the house :D :D :D Think cinnamon buns w/ pecorino & guanciale (pork cheek/jowl reminiscent of pancetta) but w/o the sugar & whatnot. YUMMAAAAY!

Great bread bowl but it's of little significance compared to the rest of the dishes SO...for antipasti we got the sweetbreads w/purple and weirdly green broccoli, and...the Octopus Carpaccio w/ purple potato mash & arugula. Sweetbreads were abysmally ordinary and it only came with about 3 pieces! >:( Kefi's sweetbreads will always be my #1--that and I am really not digging breaded & fried sweetbreads. No...significant flavor. Carpaccio was nice but still not that oomph i was hoping for--a bit too much taters if u ask me!

Onto pasta dishes! Megan had been stalking Raviolo di Uvolo for a while so needless to say she was quite jazzed to order it--everyone thought it was too much cheese which overwhelmed the egg itself. I just wanted another raviolo on my dish! >:( Nice tho, rather rich, but tasty. Bit of spinach to balance it out. Buccatini all'amatriciana was QUITE GOOD imo. Had a nice heat (turned up a notch), great sauce--some people thought it was a smidge salty but tasty fine-ness to moi! Carbonara was a letdown. All the other reviews raved about it--I say hizzeck no, I can make better sauce and i *HAVE* so suck it. Pasta was a bit too al dente for my liking, as in I truly thought it was undercooked for an italian resto esp but...whatebbs, Amatriciana saved the day :D

But as u can tell below--we pretty much dug all three :) Really wanted to try the Cacio e Pepe but...another time! There was quite a lag b/w sitting down, getting the antipasti, and the paste--quiiiite a while. But then the porky pig came to us quickly...but in the meanwhile, a lampshade fell and freaked everybody out and we...stalked the cheese/meats/breads/dessert bar--kind of a fun addition to the corridor b/w the front dining area, and very nice to see all these things done right in front of u and everybody looking so chipper, eager, and...raring to go.

They had a pretty crazy wine list. Shanaz and I got a couple but...I dunno. whichebbers , food was the focus :) Also...Anita Lo was seated across the roooom!! WEEEEEEEE!!! I've met her before at James Beard but...I still like....to...run into...chefs I recognize and no say anything at all but giggle massively to myself. The embodiment of "tittering", really. :) TEEHEE!!

Anyway, really low key atmosphere and just a great space. We really oggled the room(s) for a bit while we waited...and then...was...the piggy!! Maialino = little pig in Italian, I'm told. I should know better, but...we didn't cover 'little piggy' in vocabulary back in college :) The entire staff was rather effervescent--they were really excited to bring out the and made it a point to notify us way early of the coming presentation of said piggy (and goading me to take pictures, almost giving me cues--like to get a picture of the raviolo midcut :P), and then...choppity chop the piggy returns w/ taters as u will see...

SEE?? they're so happy @ Maialino. Anyhoo, this thing really was a beast--there wasn't too much meat (in terms of what u expect a $68 hunk of pork to be) but my effin' gawd the cracklings was magnificent and the meat was so tender!! Potatoes very aromatic w/ the rosemary, well seasoned too.

JUST LOOK AT THAT SKIN!! ees so bootiful and deleeshus. Taters really tempered the porky fatty savory gamey-ness but...jebus there was a lot of added oil which kind of...made me max out after 1/2 a strip and a quarter more. Marrow was also very very rich but awesomely tasty and 3 of us spent a good amt of time gnawing it to bits to get every morsel.

K so this pic is, in all honesty a redo--but when the suckling pig just came back all chopped and ready to go, everyone literally jabbed in both knife and form simultaneously and let me tell ya...even in a little viewfinder tho super zoomed in, that freaked the *crap* outta me seeing this succession of metal...crazy jabby prison rail East Berlin/USSR iron curtain lockdown gauntlet bizness all come jamming down. BUT FUN! so I made them redo it so I could illustrate what ravenous piglets were were too :D This serious killed my stomach for the night BUT then we made room for...DESSERRRRT!!

Yes yes...we liked it all sufficiently, but that Sformato was HEAVEN--not too rich, not too sweet, ephemeral, smooth...just...heavenly & with a bit of figs and complex flavors w/ the buckwheat honey that gave it a whiff of rum-myness! Olive oil cake was meh--tartufo was GREAT (b/c of the crunch slightly dark choco shavings imo) and the ice cream itself was tasty. We were told all their gelato is in house--the brandied cherries in the tartufo however,...kind of insane and made me want to (in the future) dig it out and smash it in spite for how it overwhelms my tastebuds. SMASHY SMASH!

Great service--so amiable! Some lag time in the beginning, but all the servers were great and spunky and knowledgeable w/o gagging u with perkiness or dogmatic recs. YAY. Def will go back to try the pig's feet, other pastas, and maybe something seafood-y.

See they're so happy and such busybodies they're a blur :D :D

Ramps Rampage at Craftbar!...

This past Sunday, after a very very long work week, and...very long couple weeks of feenin' for ramps--I overloaded w/ RAMPS(!) @ Craftbar with Albee. Actually, I debated getting the chicken pate & ramps sammich @ Num Pang, then ramps on the menu at Mas, Savoy, Lupa, Otto (ramps pizza!), Bar Artisanal (white asparagus + bottarga with RAMPS! ), Beppe, A Voce, and Spotted Pig (RAMP SOUP! TEEE!! and ramps w/ fried duck egg!) and anywhere I could google ramps on the menu to my heart/stomach's desire. Back Forty in the EV should have it--as should a lot of restos in the city this season. Ramps are wild leeks that are like if Onion and Garlic married--or rather, had an orgy with lots of onions and lots of garlic :D

Albee & I settled on Craftbar b/c they were open on a Sunday, had a seasonal (and appetizing) menu, was close by, and...hearty-seeming meal to be had :) To start of with--desserts!! The mint ice cream on my brownie was DIVINE b/c it didn't taste minty--it tasted mint-leaf-y! Made me as delighted as I was to have culantro/long coriander! SO refreshing, SUCH a better version of 'mint' compared to the processed, saccharine mintiness. I def can see how people might prefer 'mint' to be a more tactile/taste-buds tingling experience but this is FLAVOR! and REFRESHMENT! not...slapping your tongue around a bit trying to get a sensation.

BUT--this is actually the pistachio 'sorbet' :) Very VERY pistachio-y in that it tastes like actual roasted pistachios! And (as much as I like the pistachio spumoni @ Spumoni Gardens) incomparable to the unholy fluorescent green and fake pistachio flavoring to most ice creams--except the Haagen Daaz pistachio is actually pretty damn tasty but it tastes more like pistachio cookie than quintessence of the pistachio nut itself! My mint ice cream & brownie to punctuate this entry latah...

First...pork shoulder w/ tomato molasses and RAMPS MARMALADE! and then hamachi w/ pineapple puree and RAMPS!

Then for entrees--Albee and i got MORE RAMPS! :) We split the Tagliatelle w/ tomato ragout and RAMPS! See that sprig pulled up to the corner? That's a limp but roasted ramp :) TEEHEE! Isolated just for you ;P

Very simple dish--tomato ragout had deep flavors (obviously had a lot of time to reduce--*ahem-popupshopinwilliamsburgwhoneedstolearnthisidea!*). LOVE a tasty roasted/super reduced, well seasoned (as in lightly) tomato (whole tomaters methinks--and totally not overpoweringly dense tomato-y flavor either).

And also split the casunziei (kah-soon-zee-ay) which is a stuffed half moon pasta with BEETS(!), grana padano cheese, ricotta, brown butter, spinach, and pooppy seeds.

If they had RAMPS ice cream I'd totally eat that--I had garlic ice cream @ The Stinkin' Rose in LA and fundamentally ramps is...wild leeks with a more spring-onion-y look...AND is sweet-ish in pickled form so I'd see that as a tasty possibility ^_^. Brownie was nice, whip cream was light! MINT ICE CREAM IS SO MINT-LEAFY!! It was like eating a real leaf minus the cellulose and chewing :D So subtle, delightfully airy ^_^ Happy happy. (tewtally elevates the idea of brownie a la mode as some pedestrian diner-food or playdate with rugrats kinda thing!--for certain, the ice cream is made fresh, all natural in the BEST of the word as opposed to...super-ascetic-granola-birkenstocks-recycled-plastics way. Respecting the ingredients!)

I heart Ramps!! Must go to union square market...buy...ramps...now! YARG!

Spaghetti Carbonara....a la tranio!....

I'z made two batches--but it'll just look like I magically turned snow peas into asparagus with a slight of hand. Because I am just THAT magical.

This was my fabulous second batch--with TWICE as much white wine, 30% more eggs, and loads more pecorino ^_^ I have to say tho, that extra white wine really does add a lot more depth to all these flavours and...yummaaaaaaaay. aaaaaaay. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay.

It's kind of...really about timing with carbonara. You should boil the water right before you cook the bacon and sautee the greens so that hopefully by the time you're sauteeing and it's going off the pan, the pasta is just a couple min away from being taken out. It's kind of like garlic & oil pasta but hopefully not THAT much oil to work with b/c....that's a whole lotta bacon fat and ur veggies are gonna be greasy--and if that coats ur pasta then it'll make it hard for the carbonara sauce to coat the linguini.

This be the pre-tossing and pre sauce--i'll write up the recipe below. Purty much what I like to do is cherry-pick from a handful of diff recipes and then fudge the amounts and (possibly throw in some fish sauce HEHEHE...*ahem*) modify i to my liking and...adventuresome. The prep pics and the one under is of the 1st batch--i think I actually thought "EFF IT!" to the wine in the first batch b/c I've neve really cooked with wine...that and I dunno...the wine I had was pretty random from Astor wine.

The big thing is NO CREAM. none none none. I think cream is gross but that's from...some bad experiences with cream growing up. Plus it's a little cheating no? I really don't think you should use parmesan cheese (SERIOUS) and never cream. Parmesan is just..overplayed and for the most part pales in comparison in terms of adding flavor.

* * * * * * * * *
SPAGHETTi CARBONARA
....w/ White Wine, Pecorino, Pine Nuts, Asparagus,
Pancetta, & Crushed Black Peppers!...

1 box of linguine (bigger surface area!)

1 bunch of asparagus (I might have split that half green & half white asparagus)

1/2 pound of bacon or pancetta

1-1.5 cups of white wine (cheap is fine, if not perfect. somethign tart and vibrant)

6-7 eggs (if it's the smaller eggs then yeh go w/ the extra)

1.5 cups of shaved/grated Pecorino cheese


a buttload of garlic :D

Prep the sauce stuffs first!!! So...crack all those eggs in a bowl, some seasoning (like fishsauce :D) if u please but REALLY sparingly b/c the pecorino packs a punch. Anyway--so the other recipes called for like 1/2 a cup but I kinda eyeballed it at first--then I thought OH WHAT THE HAY and poured in as I liked. I'm guestimating 1-1.5 cups of white wine :D. Now to balance that out, I ended up grating in more pecorino to balance it out and add more texture. Visually you'll know what you want in terms of viscosity so...do what u will. Black peppers, whisk whisk whisk.

Cut up asparagus into i guess..1-2cm chunks whatever u want. Slice up the bacon/pancetta/guanciale if u can get it into strips the width of your ring or pinky finger--throw it into the pan (no butter or oil). Render the fat blah blah--I tend to end up skimming out some fat cuz it's kinda...insane how much comes out. I use this to toast the pine nuts or whatever nuts you want. I had extra snow peas one night so I used that--but I def like the asparagus. Sautee either one (snow peas if u want more crunch) briefly in with the bacon. Needless to say there was a ton of garlic in there already--sometimes I end up using like...6-7 cloves. HEEHEH...*ahem*.

* * * * * * * * *

NOW--tricky part...per se. MAKE SURE THE PASTA IS STRAIGHT FROM THE POT and pretty damn hot (don't really rinse...just pull it out with that pronged pasta thing, quick couple flicks of the wrist to remove excess water and then straight into that pan with bacon & greens). You can see my pasta cover the bacon/greens bits but DON"T mix yet. Pour in the carbonara sauce--it's raw eggs so the hot pasta will cook it through--but I just put the whole thing on super low heat and constantly tossed and stired just to be sure.

* * * * * * * * *

It's like omelletes--u still want it a little runny. Otherwise it's like...scrambled eggs and spaghetti. NO. no no no no. :) Pine nuts in there, toss toss toss, chopped parsley for some color and some freshness. My version removes a lot of the pasta and overloads on the sauce b/c it's creamy and I wants creamy and a bigger sauce to spaghetti ratio!! 1lb pasta might be much. I think I might've just used 80% of the box. Again...lotsa eyeballin' :P

I'm tired. good luck. f*ck around with it! This is the basis for some bangin' carbonara. HONESTLY the pecorino (and EXTRA pecorino cheese :P) and extra white wine helps. I think I really lucked out that my white wine was pretty tart but still mild and bright. It was some cheap bottle from Astor wines. Sleepy time. PEACE.

Cafe Euro in Balestrate...

Down the st. from Scott & Ange's place in Balestrate--one of the better pasticcerie in all of *ITALY* that we got a chance to go to...I guess...we wanted more of a panificio (bakery) than a sweets shop--but even still...most of them didn't deliver in terms of the breads, pastries, etc in texture etc. Their cornetto/croissants are pretty dense...as is most their...carbs we thought =/ Or the pastry cream was wack! Either way...

SO YUMMMAAAAY!!!!!!

...lotsa ricotta in these...a bit overwhelming at times but I mean...these things are massssive! TEEHEE!!!!! Their sfoglias and croissants and other stuff are far from flakey either.

The tarts were rather good--the wild strawberries--MAN the fruit toppings/fruit themselves make such a HUGE diff when abroad!! The pastry cream here is also one of the better ones I've tasted in my life too....and look they wrap everything up so prettily!...

It's also really interesting the diff in bread rise and airy qualities the farther down south you go. Mostly plain jane breads--they serve their purpose =/ But...these from Cafe Euro we thought had the right amount of sweetness and compromise in airiness/bready...whatever it is.

We had what looked like 2 massive cakey/doughey things overflowing with Ricotta--but actually one is like a bombolone (italian donut/beignet) and the other is more...brioche-like.

As u can tell the Italians (esp Sicily) love their almond cookies and pistachio or pine nuts! I can't complain. I think I prefer ricotta over marscapone as well!...SUPER CLOSE-UP OF PISTACHIO COATING!!...:) it was so ...deliciously green and coloured!! And almond-y!

I think this is one of the most fun/funny shots I've taken b/c u can clearly see Karen smiling w/ glee in the background over the foods hehe...

It was perfect weather, perfect lighting, perfect mostly everything in Sicily after so much rain and some ish in Bologna and Florence when we first came in! :) Except for the slow ass non-existent trains that take longer than the bus to get from outside the city into Palermo hehe...SUPER ZOOM on the pistachio topped almond cake!!

Pasticceria Maria Grammatico!...

I was google-ing Pasticceria Maria Grammatico for the address and to freshen up my memory of the 5 diff pastries I had there. Surprise surprise! They have a website (an oddity for many Italian businesses)....AND apparenty Maria Grammatico had released her own biography a while back called Bitter Almonds/Mandorle Amare.

Long story short--born 1940, after the war was sent to orphanage ~11, taught by nuns how to make Sicilian sweets to sell in town, left convent @ 20 to open her own stuffs. I didn't see Maria @ the shop when we were there, just some youngin'.

CLOSE UP WITH BITE MARKS!! :)

This is what most of Erice looked like--narrow cobblestoned alleyways up and down some crazy hills and nooks and winding and...super medieval. Made me wanna gallop on a horse!! and maybe knock over some plebeian dragging a cart of dirty produce! :) more on this later...

A random purchase was a sfoglia with nutella--ur general phylo dough/puff pastry w. chocolate hazelnut-y goodness! Plus we hadn't really eaten brunch yet :P So...i figured I wanted some carbs...in such a healthy form! ;) didn't want to ruin my appetite for late lunch :P

I wanted to get the 12 or 24 pack of assorted Sicilian sweets but 1--this sh*t is EXTREMELY almost intolerably sweet if ingested in such volume. That and I didn't wanna hafta carry it all back and have it disintegrate on the train ride back to Balestrate! That up there would be the Paradiso cake, the Sospiri, pignola/pine nut almond cake, and pistacchio...marzipan? thingie. Felt like mochi!

There was this...specialty to the region...marzipan with jello and...almond cake i think? We weren't big fans of any major ingredient in there so...we effed it and skipped out. And sat on some mini-porch in the alley by the Cyclopean walls and ate away :) I'm reading all this stuff about how the walls, the convents, church, and castles are dated 1600, 800 B.C. CRAAAAAZY! ^_^

A little bit about the town of Erice--TEENY TINY as HELL. I'd say maybe as big as...what comprises the Lower East Side or maybe....tinier? IT IS TEENY!! But it is the awesomest speck of a town entirely unperturbed by development and commercial tourism. Must post scenic pics later...giant archive...tired...yar! :)